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Aug/Sep Issue
Article 4

 

 

The Compass - August 2009

Switzerland – The Alpine village of Grindelwald
Written and photographed by Natalie Sobiesiak

Nestled in a valley in the scenic Bernese Oberland and cloistered by the commanding mountain trio of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau lies the charming town of Grindelwald. One of Switzerland’s oldest mountain resorts, Grindelwald’s enduring appeal perhaps stems from fact that it really has something to offer all tastes and budgets. Whether you are a winter sports enthusiast, or prefer adventures in summer, Grindelwald is a veritable playground for outdoor lovers all year round and is an ideal base for exploring the world famous Jungfrau region.

From anywhere in the town, you can be mesmerised by dramatic views of snow-covered peaks below which gingerbread houses dot the alpine landscape giving rise to a rustic ambience. Fairytale Grindelwald is home to a resident population of just 4000 and holidaying here can feel like you’re visiting a remote mountain village or stepping back into a by-gone era, which certainly adds to its charm. In reality, Grindelwald is conveniently located just 35 minutes from Interlaken by railway and can even be accessed by car from anywhere in Switzerland. Once you’re there, Grindelwald is well connected to the nearby mountains by a network of cable-cars which run with clockwork precision for which the Swiss are world renowned.

The gondola ride from the village to First offers breathtaking 360 degree views as you ascend the mountain. Grindelwald came to popularity as a ski resort and it’s not hard to see why; every winter the green, rolling mountains are blanketed in snow and the landscape is transformed into a skier’s paradise. First, the most accessible mountain from Grindelwald, along with nearby resorts of Wengen and Mürren offers some of the best skiing in the Swiss Alps with pistes for the novice skier or snow-boarder right through to more challenging runs. If you seek more difficult terrain, the Eiger glacier has a series of adrenalin-pumping black runs - definitely not the faint-hearted!

If skiing isn’t your style, there is a plethora of other outdoor pursuits which keep tourists flocking to Grindelwald in wintertime. Tobogganing, cross-country hiking and snow shoeing are some of the more popular exploits and if you are new to any of these winter sports and come unprepared, equipment hire is available in the village. And after an exhilarating day on the slopes, you can still enjoy picturesque surroundings from the warmth and comfort of one of the many family run cafes or guest houses as you sample traditional Alpine delicacies.

Grindelwald’s setting against the romantic backdrop of the mighty snow-capped mountains is an undeniable drawcard in wintertime. However, this resourceful Alpine village doesn’t just rely on the cold months for its tourist trade. Come spring and summer, Grindelwald rewards visitors with a starkly different landscape and a vast choice of outdoor activities. In summertime, the surrounding peaks of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, although still covered in wisps of white powder, seem a little less imposing and as the snow melts in the valleys, the vibrancy of the landscape is revealed.

These days, Grindelwald is a popular starting point for hiking excursions from the end of May through to the end of September. With 300km of walking trails around Grindelwald, there is definitely no shortage of varied routes, from gentle paths that meander through verdant meadows to steep gradients that ply a course up craggy slopes; whatever your ability, hiking in Grindelwald offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Switzerland. As is standard throughout the country, hiking trails are well marked with frequent signposts. One of the most popular hikes which can be accessed from Grindelwald is the trail from the town of Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg with permanent views of the majestic Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau peaks.

For adrenalin junkies, the fresh mountain air and stunning unspoilt views in the surrounds of Grindelwald provide the perfect setting for a wealth of action-packed extreme sports including mountain climbing and biking, paragliding, river rafting, bungy jumping and sky diving.

But arguably the highlight for any visitor to this region is the scenic railway journey to the Jungfraujoch- the ‘Top of Europe’- at 3454 metres above sea level. Alighting from the train at Europe’s highest railway station just below the summit of Jungfrau, weather permitting, an incomparable vista awaits. From the Sphinx terrace you can marvel at the Aletschglacier, Europe’s largest glacier, which winds around the peaks like a frozen six lane highway. The Jungfrau-Aletsch-Bietschhorn region is the most glaciated part of the Alps and has been designated a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site. Here, in the highest town in Europe, the snow never melts and even the perennial sub zero temperatures are not a deterrent for the 600 000 tourists who visit Jungfraujoch every year.

  A keen backpacker, Natalie Sobiesiak has travelled extensively throughout Australia, Asia, the Middle East, Europe and North Africa. Whether trekking in the Swiss Alps, floating in the Dead Sea or rolling chapatti in India, Natalie is at home when she’s on the road. She has lived and worked in Australia and the Middle East and now resides in Switzerland where she works as the Communications Manager for Babel Travel.  

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