Sidi Bou Said- An Artist’s Mecca Written and Photographed by Lusine Stepanian
The café overlooked an unknown square with the main street
rolling down the hill into the Gulf of Tunis. The sun bounced
against the white walls of this mysterious town creating a glare
towards every direction. As I sipped on my mint tea, I was drawn
into the everyday Tunisian life.
Sidi Bou Said, a little town located in the Northern Tunisia,
is not only colourful in its appearance, but in its people too.
At 20 km from the capital, it has become a popular tourist trap.
Despite of it, it has still kept its traditions as an authentic
lieu where Tunisians reside up to this very day. Once you leave
the main street of Habib Thameur, you will begin to experience
the real Tunisian life. You find yourself along hidden passages
with carefully lined cobblestone streets and colourfully painted
doors. Each door may have a new story to tell. Painted with unique
patterns, they represent signatures and symbols of Tunisia. One
may be the entrance to the mosque; another will lead you to the
backyard of a local. It may even be a mere boutique hiding behind
a green and red striped masterpiece.
As I sip on my refreshing tea, I observe a man repainting his
blue house, as if keeping in tact with the rest of the village.
An elder walks along Habib Thameur selling hand-braided jasmine
flowers. For one Dinar, it is hard to refuse the sweet aroma surrounding
all your senses. History tells that this town was called after
the Muslim saint Abou Said ibn Khalef ibn Yahia Ettamini el Beji
whose tomb is now located under a cupola near the Café
des Nattes, where I drank my tea.
Many speak of Sidi Bou Said as the ‘Artist’s Village’.
Here, artists would come to be inspired by colour. The town is
mostly painted in vibrant white and blue with colourful doors
looking out at every entry. Among many artists, Swiss painter
Paul
Klee loved to spend his time here. His paintings portray the
passion and inspiration he felt on his journey to Sidi Bou Said.
Here, he began to understand the significance of light and colour
which are now portrayed in his paintings. He noted, "Color
has taken possession of me. No longer do I have to chase after
it, I know it has hold of me forever".
Even if you are not a painter, you will be mesmerised by the
vibrancy and tranquility of this town. As a writer, artist or
a mere tourist looking for a unique escape you can find it at
Sidi Bou Said.
Lusine Stepanian
is The Compass Editor. Aside from travel writing she is inspired
by Latin dancing with her second performance on its way. She
is also improving her Spanish skills in order to fully enjoy
her upcoming journey through South America.
