Along the Andes of Peru Written and Photographed by Esmeralda Campos
Peru offers a few peers when it comes to physical beauty and
diversity. Its landscapes will delight anyone with an appreciation
for the outdoors and its ruins will turn every visitor into an
amateur archaeologist. With a population of 28 million, the country
is fast becoming South America’s top destination for mountain
climbing, river rafting, bird-watching, river cruises, and rainforest
treks. However, aside from the typical adventurous activities,
I would like to introduce you to the northern Peru. Let us embark
on a journey to Huaraz, located in the Callejon de Huaylas valley,
famous for its mine sites.
Huaraz can be reached inexpensively by bus. Many private companies
operate their own bus stations with luxury buses comparable in
comfort to European models. For your safety and comfort, I strongly
recommend investing in one, even though their cost may hike up
twice as much as regular buses. The city of Huaraz is the capital
of the department of Ancash and it is located in the hearth of
the Callejon de Huaylas. It is known as a paradisiacal place,
situated in the central section of the Andean valley formed by
the Santa River, contained between the Cordillera Blanca- White
Mountain Range and the Cordillera Negra- Black Mountain Range.
With impeccable weather year long it represents a cradle of great
millennial civilization, an outstanding Chavin Culture.
The valley of Santa has an average elevation of 3,000 meters
above sea level where the flow of the rivers continues from south
to north. Here, the rich agricultural lands, dedicated to the
cultivation of exported flowers, are bathed in colourful aromas.
Huascarán, the highest peak of Peru is located in the Cordillera
Blanca, rising at 6,746 meters above sea level. And the Alpamayo,
known as the most beautiful snowy mountain in the world, is famous
for its almost perfect pyramidal shape. It is a paradise for those
hungry for a great challenge of mountain climbing, skiing, rafting
and paragliding.
My host had arranged
a truck rental with a local driver who waited for us at the
bus terminal. Our first stop was at a small shop downtown
to drink an emoliente*, a hot beverage made from
the boiling liquid of flax seed and a decoction of toasted
oats and oat straw. We then traveled along the Santa river
valley passing through the city of Carhuaz. Driving along
the hot springs of Monterrey a road of 4 km leads to the mineral-medicinal
fountains of Chancos, whose curative virtues have deserved
the epithet of the Fountain of Youth. After our long ride
we finally arrive in the cozy little town of Pueblo Libre.
We had been invited to a baptism ceremony that would be held
later in the day at the town church. In the interim, we drove
up the mountain to visit an underground mine site located 8 km
uphill. Even though the road was unpaved and bumpy, I was shooting
away with my camera mesmerized by the vibrancy of the blue sky
floating along the green valley. We reached our camp site. A guide,
patiently waiting, took us to a small rural house in the middle
of a eucalyptus forest where he kept the safety equipment. He
provided us with hats, belts, lamps and boots, and led us towards
the mine entrance.
Mining is the main economic activity in Peru and many small
mines operate along the Callejon de Huaylas. Most local miners
do not like women entering an underground mine because of their
belief that the mine, a female gender, would get jealous of a
woman coming close to her and in revenge it would stop giving
out the minerals. My host was an open minded mining engineer and
he very much welcomed my visit. I learned how to recognize minerals
in a short, yet informative guided visit.
After the visit, we drove back to the town church for the baptism
ceremony, followed by an after ceremony of drink and toast with
the child’s family. The most curious thing was the gift
the god parents received from the child’s family, a sack
with guinea pigs to be enjoyed at their own leisure. My trip then
continued to Yungay, the site of a major earthquake and landslide
in 1970 that buried the town and killed over 17,000 people. This
however, is another journey.
*Emoliente: a hot beverage made from the boiling liquid of
flax seed and a decoction of toasted oats and oat straw. These
two liquids are mixed together while hot. Optional additions are
lime juice and infusions of mint and/or alfalfa. This drink is
used to soothe the stomach and aid in gall bladder function.
Bus Companies
Movil Tours -Av. Paseo de la Republica 749 – Lima, Peru
Cruz del Sur -Av. Javier Prado Este 1209 – Lima, Peru
Transportes Civa -Av. Paseo de la Republica 575 – Lima,
Peru
Esmeralda
Campos was born in Lima - Peru and has traveled extensively
most of the Peruvian territory. She has lived in nine different
cities on three continents. Presently residing in Toronto
she visits Peru every year.
