Albania - Tirana Renaissance Written by Christopher J. Varady
Photographed by Blerta Kambo
Albanians proudly proclaim theirs is the only European country
without a McDonalds. When its cousin Balkan countries were attracting
tourists and investors, Albania was still struggling to find itself
after years of communist isolation. Enver Hoxha, the mysterious
dictator, who ruled over Albania for much of its communist period
kept the country strictly without any information about the outside
world. With even curtains outlawed at one point, the abrupt transition
to democracy in 1990 brought with it a Wild West sense of freedom
where gangsters and kalishnov-bearing businessmen roamed the streets
of Tirana not very long ago. However, in the last couple of years,
the reforms of a young entrepreneurial class have taken root and
the Albania of today is now re-inventing itself as a modern, EU-bound
country.
Situated on the Western Balkan coast where the Adriatic and Ionian
Seas meet, the country has long been a well-guarded secret of
a select few travelers. Albania’s charming capital, Tirana,
is experiencing nothing short of a renaissance, both in architecture
and street life. Tirana is ringed by beautiful mountains on three
sides and its temperate climate welcomes visitors with beautiful
views of the mountains, always visible from all parts of the city.
With only a rare snow in some years, the capital has a climate
unbeaten by other Balkan capitals. Though it can be quite rainy
in the spring time, it never gets too cold. Visitors should head
first to Mt Dajti (take a taxi to the Fresku community, 500leke
and 500leke for the cable car) to ride the cable car to the top.
The breathtaking views from Mt. Dajti allow visitors
to take in the whole capital and see all the way to the port city
of Durres.
Tirana is a capital who’s slower pace and manageable scale
gives visitors all the modern amenities while offering a glimpse
into its charming culture and laid-back lifestyle. While clothing
styles may be updated and the skyline dramatically modernized,
Albanian culture remains strong and constant. The infectious friendliness
of its people is in stark contrast to the Soviet customer service
of its Balkan neighbors. With a drink in hand in a sidewalk café,
it won’t take long before visitors are laughing and joking
with a new Albanian friend.
Certainly, the remnants of the city’s Communist past still
exist in socialist realism artworks and some government buildings.
But these days, they are more novelty than a source of pride.
Without the vast architectural inheritance of its neighboring
Balkan countries, Tirana has attracted investment to create a
bold, optimistic skyline. Tirana’s former painter-turned-mayor
(and voted as the world’s best mayor by World Mayor in 2004)
embarked on a process of painting the old, gray apartment blocks
of the Communist era in bright colors to inspire the city’s
residents. The experiment worked and Tirana is alive with colors
and people’s enthusiasm.
The city has been over the last few years a blank canvas on which
its mayor is embarking on a Dubai-style recreation of the city.
Post-Modern buildings are rising up anywhere there is space. European
architectural firms have recently won contracts for futuristic
projects to reshape the city’s historic center, Skanderbeg
Square, as well as several civic buildings. The new Parliament
building will rival the dome on the Reichstag for aesthetics and
linking government to its people. In the lake district to the
south of the city, a Dutch architectural firm has already broken
ground on a mixed residential and commercial district that whose
gravity-defying architecture is not found anywhere else in Europe.
Though the traditional villas and low-rise neighbors are quickly
disappearing due to a lack of interest and the high cost of refurbishment,
the result is a post-modern skyline on an approachable scale.
The city’s enthusiastic look to the future is centered
in the fashionable Block neighborhood. This 6 by 8 block neighborhood
was off-limits to all buy party elites during the communist period,
but is now the epicenter of Tirana’s renaissance. Smart
boutiques, internet cafes, and a few art galleries compete for
space with international companies and embassies. This leafy district
is the center of Tirana’s café culture by day and
its bar scene by night. Albanians conduct their business and friendships
over a macchiato, the local version of espresso. Visitors can
do the same while people watching at one of the endless cafes
in the Block. Fame and Metropolitan
on Rruga 4 Shkruti are usually filled with stylish Tiranans from
early morning into the late evening. Vila Palma
on Rruga Bridgada VIII has an outdoor patio set within Santorini-inspired
white washed walls. Take a drink at the revolving bar at the top
of the Sky Tower on Rruga 4 Shkruti to take in
a view of the entire city’s lights at night.
A few art galleries have taken root in the Block neighborhood.
Though Tirana does not yet lay claim to having an art scene as
such, one is beginning to emerge. Albanians are also becoming
more fashionable lately with even a few local designers beginning
to gain notoriety at home and abroad. Some, like At Nikolla
(Rruga Ismail Qemali), have their boutiques in the neighborhood,
selling their own designs side-by-side with prêt-a-porter
boutiques selling the latest European imports.
If the Greek salads and pizzas on most restaurant menus get old,
try some of the best in traditional Albanian cuisine meals at
Juvenilja on Rruga Sami Frasheri (there is another
location on Tirana’s lake park in a castle-like atmosphere
with plenty of outdoor dining, three course dinners cost about
10EUR). For the best in Albanian cuisine, try Tavernetta
on Rruga 4 Shkruti where dinners cost about 12EUR. Both restaurants
have service that demonstrates the waiters’ pride in the
meals. Don’t forget to try one of Albania’s best kept
secrets, its locally-produced red wines.
Although Tirana has a very small handful of large hotels which
cater to the business and diplomatic community, its boutique hotels
offer the best value and charm for visitors. Try the Green
House (50/100EUR for singles/doubles) on Rruga Jul Variboba
6, whose rooms are stylishly decorated and which boasts an excellent
outdoor restaurant as well as wireless internet. The Grand
Hotel is right smack in the middle of Block on Rruga
Ismail Qemali with an outdoor terrace. Another option is the Hotel
Vila Park (80EUR for doubles) located in the park bordering
the south side of the city. The hotel has its own high-tech gym
and is right on the foot paths which meander through the pine
treed park just south of the fashionable Block neighborhood.
Tiranans seemingly never stay home on a Friday or Saturday night,
as the crowds in Block attest. For an evening out, try Charles
just off of Rruga 4 Shkruti which has live music and an outdoor
bar. Mumia, in the Piramada monument to Enver
Hoxha, attracts a young, hip crowd nightly. An equally young crowd
has recently been gathering at Don’t Tell Mama
which is on the lake in the park, with a great bar and excellent
DJ in an outdoor, white linen setting. Fashionistas with money
gather at the Living Room on Rruga Toptani, but
bouncers strictly enforce the beautiful-people dress code. Tirana’s
answer to a biker bar, Steelwings, just off of
Rruga Bridgada VIII is a fun place to sit outside with a drink
and see a side of the city’s residents you wouldn’t
expect to see.
When the summer heat slows Tirana to a crawl, do as the city’s
residents and head for the pristine beaches on the coast. Some
of the best beaches though can be found in and around Vlore, about
3 hours drive south of Tirana. The nearby mountains offer some
possibilities for hiking and cultural exploration around the village
of Kruje. This medieval village retains the traditional architecture
and a fortress from the Ottoman period only about 45 minutes drive
outside of Tirana.
Tirana is looking to the future, while keeping one foot firmly
rooted in its past. But the myth of a gangster country has already
been debunked and the secret is out, as hoards of backpackers
attests. Pull up a chair at any one of the city’s sidewalk
café, packed with stylish Albanians, and watch this city
take its place among Europe’s most modern capitals.
Christopher
Varady is a humanitarian relief worker currently based
in the Middle East. He contributes travel articles on destinations
experiencing social change that we all can appreciate and
encourage.
