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The Compass - June 2008

Cenotes- The Sacred Waters of Mexico
Written and Photographed by Lusine Stepanian

The Yucatan Peninsula, south-eastern tip of Mexico, is mainly composed of limestone; hence the region has almost no rivers and only a few lakes. Instead, one finds thousands of underground rivers, exposed to the outer world through cavern formations and passageways. It has taken thousands of years for these flooded underground rivers and caves to form. And once the roof of a cavern collapses due to erosion, it forms a water hole known as - cenote. Over four thousand cenotes are spread through Yucatan, with many still not having been studied nor registered. Since limestone can serve as a filter system, the cenote water is turquoise coloured and pure. Therefore, it was and still remains the main water source for many ancient and contemporary Maya families.

Cenote – translated by the conquering Spaniards from the Maya word dzonot, literally means ‘deep thing’. It has been used by Mayas not only as a water source but as a vital part of their religious beliefs. Known as sacred wells, cenotes believed to be paths to Xabalba, the Underworld and the key to after life. It was believed that a cenote was home to Chac, the God of rain, hence Mayas used it as a lieu for prayers and sacrifice. Valuables and human skeletons have been found by archaeologists in the early 20th century which lead to the conclusion that human sacrifice has in fact taken place.

For years archaeologists have been uncertain about the types of sacrifices. Some argued Mayan priests would sacrifice children while praying for rain, yet there was an uncertainty about the gender of the children. According to the research conducted by Guillermo de Anda most sacrifices were young boys. It is however difficult to determine the gender of a young skeleton, he stated.

Cenotes were divided into two categories; ritual and domestic. While the ritual cenotes were clearly distinguished by the finding of human bones, the domestic ones contained pots and other domestic materials. These discoveries helped archaeologists to better understand the history and use of a cenote.

Today, these natural wonders attract thousands of tourists into the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico. Many tours to Chichen Itza include a stop over at one of the refreshing lagoons to take a bath and relax. Because cenote waters are still used by many locals for domestic purposes, tourists are asked to avoid using sunscreen, lotions and perfumes. It also protects the beauty and purity of a million year old creation.

There are four types of cenotes, distinguished by their location - deeply underground, semi-underground, at land level and open wells. Each represents a unique beauty and a different experience. One way of exploring an underground cenote is through a guided diving tour. These however are assumed for experienced divers only. Some of the less commercial cenotes can also be accessed by a rappel, offering tourists an adventurous refresher.

With numerous cenotes to choose from, one will never get bored. On your way to Chichen Itza, make a stop at the Eco-archaeological Park Ik-kil. Its name deprives from its pure blue colour, ‘Sacred Blue Cenote’. Located at 40 meters underground, it is surrounded by green vegetation, lush waterfalls and crystalline waters, inhabited by little black fish. A grand staircase takes you into a 25 meter deep lagoon. The waters are so clear that you can see the black fish peacefully swimming at your side. As I made an effort not to hit any of the little creatures I wondered how they survive through the masses of tourist groups visiting each day.

Ik-kil is only one of thousands waiting to be awed; and although it is a fun relaxing park for the tired explorer of Mayan ruins, we shall not forget its purpose and still respect it as a sacred lieu.

Join Jennifer Lee O’Donnell as she explores a Mexican Fiesta.


  Lusine Stepanian is The Compass Editor. She has just returned from Mexico, where she studied Spanish and the Mayan history. Aside from travel writing she is inspired by Latin dancing with her second performance on its way.  

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