Seville: The hunt for Authentic Tapas Written and Photographed by Lusine Stepanian
Seville, the heart of Andalusia in south western Spain, is known
to the world for many reasons. Here one comes to experience the
intense art of bullfighting, the aggressive passion of flamenco,
the colourful mosaics of Moorish architecture, and the many flavours
of tapas.
Tapas are an essential part of life in Seville. In the early
days they consisted of cheese and ham slices which were offered
at the bar to cover drinks; hence the meaning of the word tapas
- ‘lid’. There are many myths as to why this was done.
One of the more popular ones argues that placing the slice over
your drink would keep the flies away and hide the smell of cheap
wine. Later throughout history, tapas have become more elaborate
in their variety. Nowadays, they range from cold seafood salads
to warm plates of flavoured vegetables, grilled meat dishes and
sizzling fish. To experience the real art of tapas you need to
visit a local bar. Eating tapas is not about simply tasting them;
you need to find the right ambiance. Locals usually gather in
a small bar and savour their tapas at the little stands, barrels
or directly at the counter.
After shopping at the boutiques of Calle las Sierpes, you may
take a lunch break at El
Patio on Calle San Eloy. This is a popular tapas stopover
for the hungry locals after a morning of busy shopping. Inside,
the atmosphere portrays a typical Spanish bar with pig legs hanging
over the counter to dry, a gallon of fruity sangria waiting to
be savoured, and Spanish television in the background. You may
enjoy your meal around numerous barrels scattered through the
bar, or on the colourful tiled stairs while observing the busy
crowd. The main specialty at this rincon is the jamon serrano,
that fresh dry-cured ham which is diligently hanging over your
head.
As you head towards the old town of Seville, through narrow winding
streets, make your way to Plaza Cristo de Burgos. It is located
across from San Pedro cathedral, a gothic church which houses
many important works of art and is the baptism place of the well
known painter Diego Velazquez. Hidden in the corner of this plaza
you will find yet another tapas bar called La
Taberna Coloniales. Located in a residential quarter, it attracts
families with children and university students alike. During the
hot months you can be seated outside while the delicious seafood
dishes pile up like dominoes in front of you followed by your
name. ‘Gambas, Maria, Gambas!’
Barmen keep track of orders on a little blackboard hanging outside
the bar. With a tiny chalk they create a spreadsheet for every
guest and scribble down all your orders as they arrive. If you
keep an eye on this board, you will get to know the names of all
the guests in the bar.
Heading towards the Alcazar cathedral, you will pass through
Calle Mateos Gago, filled with bars and restaurants and some catchy
tourist shops. This street is always packed with tourists who
had just come out from the former Moorish fort of Alcazar, dating
back to 14th century. Most of these bars are crowded with tourists
and English menus. Avoid them and walk towards the end of the
street. At the corner of Calle Rodrigo Caro stands a bar, packed
with Spaniards of all ages with the barmen screaming out the name
of every dish as it arrives, and the only menu in sight is a chalk
smothered board which you cannot even get to. Las Columnas,
also known to the locals as La Bodega, is located
in Barrio de Santa Cruz, a former Jewish quarter. Its lively ambiance
and addictive perfumes of fresh food will not let you pass without
teasing your curiosity.
Let us go in.
Make your way to the chalk board, if at all manageable, and try
to make out the words of the menu. You may end up staring at it
with squinting eyes until someone pushes you to squeeze through
to the counter. And when you finally realize that you do not understand
the meaning of the scribbles, just ask for random orders. Either
way, you will not be disappointed with your choices. As for a
drink, try ‘tinto de verano’. It is a light version
of sangria, a popular thirst quencher for Sevillans.
Soon after few sips of your tinto you will hear the barman yelling
out your dishes - as if you could remember what they were, and
he will present them to you one by one followed by their names.
‘Patatas Bravas, Puntillitas, Conejo Ahumado…’
That may leave you puzzled; wondering if this is really what you
ordered. But then again, you can’t remember what you ordered
in the first place. As you try your random pick of tapas, you
may notice others calling out their orders over your shoulder,
passing mouth-watering dishes to each other, and some unintended
pushing from the locals. While savouring the smoked rabbit stirred
in tomato sauce you may start wondering how barmen keep track
of everyone’s order echoing through the air from every direction.
Many authentic bars such as this one keep track of orders by writing
them on the counter with a chalk. Alternatively, they have a little
blackboard as in La Taberna Coloniales. This saves them paper,
ink and space. It is practical for both you and the barman until
you have satisfied your belly.
If someday, your curiosity leads you to Seville, make sure to
attend this lively feast of tapas. When seeking for a real authentic
tapas experience, pick a bar with a lively ambiance. If your hunt
ends similar to the above, then you can be sure to have had the
best tapas experience.
Lusine Stepanian
is The Compass Editor. She has just returned from
Mexico, where she studied Spanish and the Mayan history. Aside
from travel writing she is inspired by Latin dancing with
her second performance on its way.
