home
subscribe current issue about us contribute archives advertising links contact festivals  

 

 

May Issue
Article 5

 

 

The Compass - May 2008

Seville: The hunt for Authentic Tapas
Written and Photographed by Lusine Stepanian

Seville, the heart of Andalusia in south western Spain, is known to the world for many reasons. Here one comes to experience the intense art of bullfighting, the aggressive passion of flamenco, the colourful mosaics of Moorish architecture, and the many flavours of tapas.

Tapas are an essential part of life in Seville. In the early days they consisted of cheese and ham slices which were offered at the bar to cover drinks; hence the meaning of the word tapas - ‘lid’. There are many myths as to why this was done. One of the more popular ones argues that placing the slice over your drink would keep the flies away and hide the smell of cheap wine. Later throughout history, tapas have become more elaborate in their variety. Nowadays, they range from cold seafood salads to warm plates of flavoured vegetables, grilled meat dishes and sizzling fish. To experience the real art of tapas you need to visit a local bar. Eating tapas is not about simply tasting them; you need to find the right ambiance. Locals usually gather in a small bar and savour their tapas at the little stands, barrels or directly at the counter.

After shopping at the boutiques of Calle las Sierpes, you may take a lunch break at El Patio on Calle San Eloy. This is a popular tapas stopover for the hungry locals after a morning of busy shopping. Inside, the atmosphere portrays a typical Spanish bar with pig legs hanging over the counter to dry, a gallon of fruity sangria waiting to be savoured, and Spanish television in the background. You may enjoy your meal around numerous barrels scattered through the bar, or on the colourful tiled stairs while observing the busy crowd. The main specialty at this rincon is the jamon serrano, that fresh dry-cured ham which is diligently hanging over your head.

As you head towards the old town of Seville, through narrow winding streets, make your way to Plaza Cristo de Burgos. It is located across from San Pedro cathedral, a gothic church which houses many important works of art and is the baptism place of the well known painter Diego Velazquez. Hidden in the corner of this plaza you will find yet another tapas bar called La Taberna Coloniales. Located in a residential quarter, it attracts families with children and university students alike. During the hot months you can be seated outside while the delicious seafood dishes pile up like dominoes in front of you followed by your name. ‘Gambas, Maria, Gambas!’

Barmen keep track of orders on a little blackboard hanging outside the bar. With a tiny chalk they create a spreadsheet for every guest and scribble down all your orders as they arrive. If you keep an eye on this board, you will get to know the names of all the guests in the bar.

Heading towards the Alcazar cathedral, you will pass through Calle Mateos Gago, filled with bars and restaurants and some catchy tourist shops. This street is always packed with tourists who had just come out from the former Moorish fort of Alcazar, dating back to 14th century. Most of these bars are crowded with tourists and English menus. Avoid them and walk towards the end of the street. At the corner of Calle Rodrigo Caro stands a bar, packed with Spaniards of all ages with the barmen screaming out the name of every dish as it arrives, and the only menu in sight is a chalk smothered board which you cannot even get to. Las Columnas, also known to the locals as La Bodega, is located in Barrio de Santa Cruz, a former Jewish quarter. Its lively ambiance and addictive perfumes of fresh food will not let you pass without teasing your curiosity.

Let us go in.

Make your way to the chalk board, if at all manageable, and try to make out the words of the menu. You may end up staring at it with squinting eyes until someone pushes you to squeeze through to the counter. And when you finally realize that you do not understand the meaning of the scribbles, just ask for random orders. Either way, you will not be disappointed with your choices. As for a drink, try ‘tinto de verano’. It is a light version of sangria, a popular thirst quencher for Sevillans.

Soon after few sips of your tinto you will hear the barman yelling out your dishes - as if you could remember what they were, and he will present them to you one by one followed by their names. ‘Patatas Bravas, Puntillitas, Conejo Ahumado…’ That may leave you puzzled; wondering if this is really what you ordered. But then again, you can’t remember what you ordered in the first place. As you try your random pick of tapas, you may notice others calling out their orders over your shoulder, passing mouth-watering dishes to each other, and some unintended pushing from the locals. While savouring the smoked rabbit stirred in tomato sauce you may start wondering how barmen keep track of everyone’s order echoing through the air from every direction. Many authentic bars such as this one keep track of orders by writing them on the counter with a chalk. Alternatively, they have a little blackboard as in La Taberna Coloniales. This saves them paper, ink and space. It is practical for both you and the barman until you have satisfied your belly.

If someday, your curiosity leads you to Seville, make sure to attend this lively feast of tapas. When seeking for a real authentic tapas experience, pick a bar with a lively ambiance. If your hunt ends similar to the above, then you can be sure to have had the best tapas experience.


  Lusine Stepanian is The Compass Editor. She has just returned from Mexico, where she studied Spanish and the Mayan history. Aside from travel writing she is inspired by Latin dancing with her second performance on its way.  

back to May Issue