Seville: The hunt for Authentic Tapas Written and Photographed by Lusine Stepanian
Seville, the heart of Andalusia, in south western Spain, is known
to the world for many reasons. Here one comes to experience the
intense art of bullfighting, the aggressive passion of flamenco,
the colourful mosaics of Moorish architecture, and the many flavours
of tapas.
Tapas are an essential part of life in Seville. In the early
days they consisted of a slice of cheese or ham which was offered
at the bar to cover drinks; hence the meaning of the word ‘lid’.
There are many myths as to why this was done. One of the more
popular ones argues that placing the slice over your drink would
keep the flies away and hide the smell of cheap wine. Later throughout
history, tapas have become more elaborate in their variety. Nowadays,
they range from cold seafood salads to warm plates of flavoured
vegetables, grilled meat dishes and sizzling fish. To experience
the real art of tapas you need to visit a local bar. Eating tapas
is not about simply tasting them; you need to find the right ambience.
Locals usually gather in a small bar and savour their tapas at
the little stands, barrels or directly at the counter.
After shopping at the little boutiques of Calle las Sierpes,
you may take a lunch break at El
Patio on Calle San Eloy. This is a popular tapas stopover
for the hungry locals after a morning of busy shopping. Inside,
the atmosphere portrays a typical Spanish bar with pig legs hanging
over the counter to dry, a gallon of fruity sangria waiting to
be savoured, and Spanish television in the background. You may
enjoy your meal at the numerous barrels around the bar, or on
the colourful tiled stairs while observing the busy crowd. The
main specialty at this rincon is the jamon serrano, that
fresh dry-cured ham which is diligently hanging over your head.
As you head towards the old town of Seville, through narrow winding
streets, make your way to Plaza Cristo de Burgos. It is located
across from San Pedro cathedral, a gothic church which houses
many important works of art and is the baptism place of the well
known painter Diego Velazquez. Hidden in the corner of this plaza
you will find yet another tapas bar under the name La
Taberna Coloniales. Located in a residential quarter, it attracts
families with children and university students alike. During the
hot months you can be seated outside while the delicious seafood
dishes pile up like dominoes in front of you followed by your
name. ‘Gambas, Maria!’ Barmen keep track of orders
on a little blackboard hanging outside the bar. With a tiny chalk
they create a spreadsheet for every guest and scribble down all
your orders as they arrive. If you keep an eye on this board,
you will get to know the names of all the guests in the bar.
Heading towards the Alcazar cathedral, you will pass through
Calle Mateos Gago, filled with bars and restaurants and some catchy
tourist shops. This street is always packed with tourists who
had just come out from the former Moorish fort of Alcazar, dating
back to 14th century. Most of these bars are crowded with tourists
and English menus. Avoid them and walk towards the end of the
street. At the corner of Calle Rodrigo Caro stands a bar, packed
with Spaniards of all ages with the barmen screaming out the name
of every dish as it arrives, and the only menu in sight being
a chalk smothered board which you cannot even get to. Las
Columnas. Also known to the locals as La Bodega,
is located in Barrio de Santa Cruz, a former Jewish quarter. Its
lively ambiance and addictive perfumes of fresh food will not
let you pass without teasing your curiosity.
Let us go in.
Make your way to the chalk board, if at all manageable, and try
to make out the words of the menu. You may end up staring at it
with squinting eyes until someone pushes you to squeeze through
to the counter. And when you finally realize that you do not understand
the meaning of the scribbles, just ask for random orders from
the board. Either way, you will not be disappointed with your
choices. As for a drink, try ‘tinto de verano’. It
is a light version of sangria, a popular thirst quencher for Sevillans.
Soon after few sips of your tinto you will hear the barman yelling
out your dishes - as if you could remember what they were, and
he will present them to you one by one followed by their names.
‘Patatas Bravas, Puntillitas, Conejo Ahumado…’
That may leave you puzzled; wondering if this is really what you
ordered. But then again, you can’t remember what you ordered
in the first place. As you try your random pick of tapas, you
may notice others calling out their orders over your shoulder,
passing mouth-watering dishes to each other, and some unintended
pushing from the locals. While savouring the smoked rabbit stirred
in tomato sauce you may start wondering how the barmen keep track
of everyone’s order, echoing through the air from every
direction. Many authentic bars such as this one keep track of
orders by writing them on the counter with a chalk. Alternatively,
they have a little blackboard as in La Taberna Coloniales. This
saves them paper, ink and space. It is practical for both you
and the barman, until you have satisfied your belly.
If someday, your curiosity leads you to Seville, make sure to
attend this lively feast of tapas. When seeking for a real authentic
tapas experience, pick a bar with a lively ambience. If your hunt
ends similar to the above, then you can be sure to have the best
tapas experience.
Lusine Stepanian
is The Compass Editor. She has just returned from
Mexico, where she studied Spanish and the Mayan history. Aside
from travel writing she is inspired by Latin dancing with
her second performance on its way.
