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Nov/Dec Issue
Article 4

 

 

The Compass - November/December 2008

Iran - Guilan, a rural heritage museum
Written and Photographed by Kourosh Ziabari

About 15 km away from Rasht, the capital city of the Guilan province, there is a green and calm highway, with its two sides surrounded by rush and pine trees. A little further, lies an open area decorated with wooden tableaux and billboards including "Musee patrimoine rural de Guilan".

That French title remembers the glorious opening ceremony of "Guilan museum of rural heritage" in March 2007 where Professor Christian Bromberger gave an attractive lecture about the history of Gilak tribe in front of hundreds enamoured with Persian culture.

Guilan museum of rural heritage is a unique Ecomuseum that has been constructed in order to show the hidden corners of Guilan people's culture and lifestyle to tourists from around the world.

After paying a very skimpy amount of tax to the incumbent at the gate, you will take way into a natural corridor with tall maple trees along the sides and their foliage acting as roofs, preventing the sun and rain from damaging the traditional cobblestone floor of this narrow rural route.

The artificial wooden fence on the two sides of the corridor extends all around the museum that is designed exactly like a small village and includes all parts of a real hamlet such as teahouse, playground, municipality, stable and lake.

The museum is mainly dedicated to anthropology and is taken into account of a good and reliable source for sociological studies especially to researchers who want to gather more valuable information on Gilak's life.

Gilak people are a large ethnic group whose main homeland is Guilan province. The history of their habitation in northern parts of Iran dates back to about 300 BC and they are also said to be one of the oldest living tribe in Iran.

The Eco-museum shows the cultural and ethnic diversity of 27 Gilak subgroups in 27 cottages, in each of them there are girls wearing traditional costumes, some of them cooking traditional foods or making handicrafts. It is necessary to know that the total surface area of museum is about 260 hectares.

Guilan is one of the smallest provinces in Iran with less than 2.5 million habitants, though it is consisted of about 30 ethnic clans such as Turks, Arabs, Kurds, Gilaks, Persians, Talishyans, Galeshians and Tabarids.

The people of Gilan are very well-known because of their good manner of hospitality and reception as the types of various foods cooked in Gilan show the serious concerns and efforts of Gilak housewives to provide their guests with the best possible situation of residence and enjoyment.

The members of Gilak tribes are said to be the happiest communal groups in Iran and their spirited type of clothing proves it indeed while their friendly and human behaviour is another sign of their tranquil and warm social relations. Their local wearing models are absolutely harmonious with the peaceful and wholesome Islamic rules of clothing, though they strongly show an ideological independence from the common dressing types used in the other parts of Iran. For example, the women dressing of Rudsar city in the Eastern Guilan have been used in the opening ceremony of Athens 2004 Olympics and you
will find women wearing this colorful outfit in "Guilan museum of rural heritage" as tour-guides.

We traveled to most parts of this eco-museum in our passage but we are not to remain unaware about the live artistic shows which hold in the playground. The playground is an almost large and wide area flatted with sand soil, encircled with planted shrubs and rounded by enclosed stockade made of mud and adobe. Such a playground is a suitable place for local shows, games and live music while the most of Guilan villages hold it.

The most interesting of these shows all is the Gilaki traditional rope-dancing performed daily by the members of a noble and ancient family of Lahijan (a large city near Rudsar) whose members involve in local sports and games for many years. The father of the family, who is about 80 years old, rides a bicycle on a 3 meters thick rope and then accomplishes some fireworks. He chafes a blaming torch on his head, body and hands without being burnt or hurt.

Guilan is reckoned as the green pearl of Iran and Iran itself is counted as a piece of heaven on the earth. The rural heritage museum of Guilan exposes a small-scale view of the 7500 year old land of Caspian Sea borderline and enchants every viewer who has never seen such a pure "green".


  Kourosh Ziabari, an 18 year old freelance blogger and journalist from Iran, published the book "7+1" which is a collection of his interviews with 7 contemporary Iranian authors. He is the contributing author of Opednews.com and the Irani-based correspondent of OhMyNews international.  

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