Bonaire-Divers’ Paradise Written and Photographed by Sarah Romney
As a child, I was fascinated with the idea of mermaids; they
could happily exist under the sea. I wanted to be one. I wished
to cavort with dolphins, octopuses and seahorses, and to float
and glide with the waves. The fantasy lingered on as I became
an adult. My only recourse, as a human, was to get involved with
scuba diving, but living the city life far from those tropical
seas, I never really found the right opportunity. Those mermaid
dreams were just washing away. Then environmental news took a
turn for the worse, and scientific studies began indicating that
many of the ocean’s most fantastic species would likely
be extinct within the next 40 years. Confronted with these alarming
facts, I sought to experience the fading spectacle of those precious
coral reefs in a hurry. Like many people, however, I felt wary
of the prohibitive cost and luxury tours that dive travel so often
entails. But then I discovered the Caribbean island of Bonaire,
just north of Venezuela, where great diving is so easy it is literally
d.i.y.
Bonaire is unique for many reasons. Its culture, landscape and
surface wildlife all distinguish the island from every other Caribbean
destination. The most exceptional feature about Bonaire, though,
is that it is almost completely accessible for shore diving, meaning
you don’t need to pay an operator to take you out diving.
To reach these stunning reefs surrounding the Dutch Antillean
Island, you simply drive to any beach or coastal point, gear up,
and jump in the miraculously temperate, clear, azure water, swim
out through the sandy shallows and go down. An ocean safari awaits
at the drop-off for anyone to experience all on their own. The
island’s license plate declares it “Diver’s
paradise,” and for those looking for easy, inexpensive diving
and an off-the-beaten path destination, it is.
Only having recently been discovered by the major cruise operators
and hotel chains, Bonaire is still largely untainted by the tourism
machine, though that is very rapidly changing. Until lately, only
divers, drawn by the magnificence and abundance of these protected
waters whose entire coastline has been a marine sanctuary since
1979, really came to this little sibling of Aruba and Curacao,
and so it remained largely undeveloped. When I arrived at sunrise
on balmy Bonaire, the hotel driver, an ancient local named Samuel,
simply handed me the keys to a truck and then wordlessly led the
way to the accommodations. It was a couple days before I made
any contact with the rental car company directly. That simplicity
is the charm of the island. Likewise, the slow tourism development
of Bonaire means that certification prices and diving package
rates are relatively inexpensive.
After being certified, any diver can enjoy a plethora of dive
sites, such as 1000 Steps, Andrea I and Angel City. More advanced
divers may challenge their skills by diving wrecks, like the Hilma
Hooker, or in the intense currents and teaming wildlife of sites
like Sorobon and Lac Cay off the windward “wild side”
of the island. I went from Open Water diver all the way to Divemaster
without completely quenching my thirst, due to the sheer number
of experiences on offer. All dive sites are marked on the road
by a painted yellow rock, and a buoy off the beach indicates the
drop off to the reef. It couldn’t be simpler. Vacation rentals
like Coco Palm Gardens offer cheap dive/car/accommodation packages,
and Wannadive maintains a nice budget hotel near their two dive
shops to facilitate guest needs. Those with deeper pockets may
enjoy all-inclusive resorts such as Captain Don’s Habitat
or the Harbour Village Beach Resort.
Bonaire also differs from many Caribbean destinations in the
cultural activities available to visitors. There really aren’t
many. The town of Rincon, in the north, offers a fascinating glimpse
into the historic island culture. Visitors in February during
Carnival or in later in the spring during the Harvest Festival,
will definitely delight in the music, dance, food and costumes
on display. In the main town of Kralendijk, most dive operations
and restaurants are Dutch, as are most of the non-diving tourists.
Vacationers from other countries may feel a bit outnumbered in
the small handful of bars and clubs on the island.
However, travelers visiting Bonaire to dive, snorkel, windsurf
or kite surf will find excellent company in other enthusiasts,
as well as among the bountiful fish, rays, eels and dolphins underwater.
What Bonaire lacks in nightlife, it more than makes up for in
environment. The striking arid landscape and healthy reefs are
the true treasures of Bonaire, making it a perfect place to make
the mythical under-the-sea dream a reality before it is too late
to really enjoy it.
Sarah Romney
is a writer and filmmaker based in New York. She has lived
in Australia and Berlin, and has traveled widely in Europe,
the Caribbean and Central America. A divemaster, Sarah is
constantly looking for the ultimate destination – one
that combines pristine natural environments with unique cultural
activities - and she is looking forward to upcoming adventures
in Southeast Asia.
